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As you may recall if you read this blog with any regularity, my first visit to Israel was a fucking disaster.After being held at the border for nearly five hours, I arrived in Tel Aviv to find that I no longer had a place to stay with my would-be host; following a quick bus ride eastward, I found myself quite literally homeless for a night in Jerusalem, having gotten in after the last of the Holy City’s hostels closed for the night.By the time morning rolled around, I was frustrated, fatigued and confused — I got on the first bus back to the border.I happily paid the steep departure tax and vowed never to go back as I crossed back into Jordan. Several tangible events and encounters played a role.I met a group of Israeli travelers during my trip to South America in March, all of whom were insistent that I needed to give the country another chance, in particular one I nearly bedded but didn’t.I pondered their implied invitation over the weeks and months that followed, seeing whether the decidedly negative views I’d developed about Israel — for instance, its brutal foreign policy and seeming apathy toward human rights — would linger as spring faded into summer.Indeed, my disdain with Israel began to transform itself into a curious obsession of sorts.

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I woke up in seat 3B of an Aegean Airlines flight inbound from Athens.Out the window, a dazzling array of skyscrapers, retro housing compounds and downright old buildings appeared to be coming closer and closer.All of a sudden the development — and it was very developed, especially when compared to many of the other places in the region I’d previously visited — gave way to perfectly manicured grass and a smooth, flawless runway.Nearly a year after literally running out of Israel, I’d landed at Ben Gurion International Airport near Tel Aviv — there was no turning back.Once the plane parked at the gate, the too-beautiful man sitting across the aisle from me flashed me another of his suspicious smiles — and I characterize them as such because he seemed far too beautiful to be friendly to someone of my not-as-conspicuous beauty.

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